Is it possible to capture the beauty of Perouges? I hardly think so but I will try. Entry to this hill-top medieval village, that overlooks the Ain River Valley, is through arched city gates and once upon a time the the earth sprouted gnarled trees and vines to soften the stone walls and pathways. The cobblestones in the streets rise in little rounded lumps, they are smooth like river stones, making them hard to navigate. Perouges is definitely not the place to wander in heels ladies (or gentlemen if you are that way inclined).
The village heart is Place des Tilleuls, home to the 200 year old 'tree of liberty' which was planted shortly after the French revolution. Its cragy trunk is the artery to five twisted branches, all sprouting smaller hair-like branches that grow vertically to the sky. The old dear is supported by timber poles that take the weight of her ageing and wrinkled limbs.
A specialty called 'Galette de Perouges' is widely advertised in the village. We wandered into a Boulangerie and met the most charming Boulanger, Didier Rapaud. His counter was laden with croisants, sweets and Galettes, available to buy by the slice or in their entirety. We got chatting, and as Didier's passion for his trade became evident, I did and interview and John shot amazing photos capturing this lovely man and his wares. We were taken into the kitchen and shown the old wood fired oven and the wooden paddles whos ends were cracked and thirsty after years of being plunged deep into the oven's depths. The bench held loaves of Pain aix fruits from the mornings bake, a special loaf made of half wholemeal and half white flour, dried figs, apricots, almonds and hazelnuts. Didier slips one, and a few specialty loaves of bread into a bag for us and suggests we eat the Pain aix fruits topped with fine slices of pear and slivers of blue cheese, lightly grilled. I for one can't wait to try it.
We couldn't leave without a Galette and bought one for €10. Didier heated half for us in his wood fired oven, it was devine. The Gallete was born like so many other products in years gone by, using leftover cream, eggs and pastry. It is baked until the top is caremelised and golden.
