Night Time at Ile de la Cite. Friday 21st August 2009.

One thing lead to the next and we didn't get out of the house until late today. When we did we went to Ile de la Cite, sandwiched happily between two reaches of the Seine. We popped over to our old neighbourhood of Les Halles for a bite. We found ourselves in a bit of a tourist haunt, unusual for us, maybe our restaurant radar was a little skewed tonight. We should have known better, the first alarm bells rang when I ordered a medium/rare steak. "Non Madame", I could have it cooked either way but not in between and to my liking. I had a little giggle and ordered rare, after checking twice with our arrogant waiter if the steak was tender. The first time I asked him, he nodded while raising his eyebrows, the signal to JR that he was ready to take his order. The second time he acknowledged me, assuring me it was tender. Well blow me down if it didn't arrive in the guise of an old piece of boot leather, it was the worst piece of meat the three of us had ever eaten, or attempted to anyway. The second alarm bell rang after our entree when our basket of thickly sliced baguette arrived at our table. "Beurre?" I enquired. "Non Madame", came the curt reply. I just could not believe that a restaurant would not have the option of offering butter if the client asked for it, so I pushed the matter a little further. "Come on, no beurre in the kitchen, how is this possible?" The reply explained it all. Apparently the kitchen of the lovely establishment we found ourselves in tonight used special butter to cook with, cuisinere butter he explained. Can you imagine cooking with something that was not fit to give to guests at the table, what kind of place were we dining in?

We were sitting quite close to the door so every time couples would peruse the menu and look inside, I would catch their eye and shake my head, attempting to warn them of their fate if they entered. They were always appreciative for the advice and left mouthing thank you and smiling.

We put our bad meal to rest and ambled back to the Ile de la Cite, descended the old, worn stairs and walked along the Seine at water level, something I had never had the pleasure of doing before. Our path lead us to the very point of Ile de la Cite, to Square du Vert-Galant where groups were gathered socialising along the river. The atmosphere was relaxed and friendly. We pulled up a piece of river bank and sat a while, watching the cruise boats pass.

Returning to street level, we stopped at the Institute of France at the end of Pont des Arts. We had seen the activity on the bridge from afar and I had wondered what was going on there. It turned out it is just a popular place for people to congregate, drink wine, play music and sing. We crossed the bridge to the metro and called it a day - a great day.

Close to home. Saturday 18th July 2009.

We stayed pretty close to home today. JR and I popped out to the markets in Beaune and left AJ snoozing - he has had his fair share of markets I think.

The Saturday morning Beaune markets knocked my socks off. They would have to be one of the most beautiful ever. Who ever wrote the piece I read about Beaune and Dijon markets being so wonderful knew exactly what they were talking about. Beaune is set in the covered Les Halles marketplace which is quite small. The market is so big on Saturdays, it spills outside into the square and upand down the surrounding streets, some of it backdropped by Hotel-Dieu.

I chatted to the lovely Fabrice form a stall named 'Indian Summer Sky'. He and his wife sell specialities of southern France. I bought a few lollipops from them as AJ has a mate coming over this afternoon. Fabrice gave me a bag of pistachio, raspberry and almond nougat to try, a speciality of Montelimar in the beautiful south. The almond was my favourite, soft and not too sweet. Too much sweetness in nougat just kills it for me so it was nice to taste such a good one.

There was a stall only selling onions and garlic, the range they had was visually so beautiful. The garlic was displayed in rustic bunches and some were the softest shade of pink, just gorgeous. I bought my supply of onions for the week from the stall it looked so nice.

Summer fruit was everywhere and I couldn't resist to take some home to enjoy. I bought a bag of ripe apricots and JR chose rock melon which was in plentiful supply. They smelled so good, I always think that rock melon smells exactly as it tastes, don't you?



Bees know when they are onto a good thing, and they enjoyed the decadence of lounging around on top of a Moelleux au Fruits cake, I also found one snooping around a honey stand trying to get under a lid and into the honey pot.

Just like in Dijon yesterday, the girolle mushrooms were plentiful. I found a basket holding a good quantity of black truffles too, the first truffles I have seen at a market this year. They were mine for €30 per 100 grams, should I choose.

A friend of the family who live in Combertault brought his nneighbor over to meet AJ today at 2. It didn't take them long to warm to eachother, before long they were off on the bikes around the village and down the dirt track that leads behind the house. They had a great time and they enjoy the same kind of things so no doubt this won't be their last meeting. We dropped Jeremy home at 6 as we were taking part in the next petanque tournament (sounds so serious doesn't it) with Bruno across the road. JR and I are really hooked on the game so watch out when we return home. If you are within striking distance you may get roped into a challenge. We lost one game to two but did really well for only our second time on the square.

Surrounded by greatness. Thursday 23rd April 2009.

Michelin starred chef Philippe Lechat was setting up for our cooking class when I arrived at Atelier de cuisine Philippe Lechat at Les Halles this morning, I was a little early.


Genevieve arrived a little later, the other participant in this morning's class. Philippe escorted us around Les Halles market place, a trail of 'Bonjour Chef' followed him as he walked the aisles. I was introduced to Madame Sibilia who posed with chef for a photo. Madame Sibilia is the queen of Les Halles and a personal friend of Mr Bocuse. A very important lady when it comes to gastronomy in Lyon.


Chef purchased the lamb for this mornings class from Boucherie Trolliet, a master butcher who has been inducted into the prestigeous MOF in France, as a result he wears his blue, red and white collar with pride, announcing to all who see him the prestige he holds in his industry. Philippe selects perfect seasonal artichokes, onions, carrots and tomatoes from the market - inspiration for today's class.



Philippe is relaxed in his kitchen, he has an easy way with him and encourages Genevieve gently as she prepares her first artichoke, 'tres bon' he says to her. The menu today is Coulis of artichoke, croustille of potato and chorizo, and wokked lamb with carrot and liquorice jus. Philippe speaks pretty good english so a french cooking class is a real possiblility for food lovers visiting Lyon.






After Genevieve left, Philippe set the table. We ate and chatted, enjoying deconstructing flavours and sharing our passion for food.

I gotta say that AJ didn't put on much of a show in the Ashes Test on the terrace this afternoon, his bowling was off form but his batting was a different story. Gosh we must look hilarious to the at least 50 apartments who look onto the terrace. I often look up into the stands to see our neighbors peering through their windows.

We had been invited back to Restaurant les Loges tonight to enjoy the delights of chef Anthony Bonnets cooking.

We were in expert hands from the time we arrived. Cours des Loges kind of feels like home we are welcomed so warmly, it's lovely. Romain, the Sommelier, looked after me well with a Pommery Champagne to begin with and wines to follow suited to the gastronomic delights put before me. AJ gave the foie gras brulee a bash and again decided that foie gras was not his thing.

Langoustine was next, then frog's legs poached in garlic cream. Full marks to AJ for giving them a go and surprise, surprise - he loved the frog's legs. I think he actually surprised himself.



Next came the sea bass in a buttery pool of foam, served with tonka beans, and new-born artichokes, spring onions and turnips. The sea bass was a tad underseasoned, my only gripe for the night - I'm beginning to sound petty.



We both had tender, pink pigeon stuffed with black truffle for main course, there was nothing not to like about it at all, and nice to taste pidgeon for the first time together with AJ.




Then came the cheese trolley. JR, you thought the cheese plates in France were crazy, you should see the trolley version. Our waiter cut slivers of cheese off wheels and rounds. I was feeling decidedly full by this stage so could not give it my full adoration, but what I did have was superb. I had not tried a fresh Charolais cheese before so it was good to make a new discovery, it was mild and creamy.




The first dessert - yes you heard me right, was like a deconstructed raspberry tiramisu. You will see what I mean by the picture below. Hidden behind the raspberries, under the lid, is a heart of sweet marscapone.



The second dessert (like we needed a second one) was called 'Sensations about Cacao Grand Cru - self explanitory I think.


'Petit fours Madame?' Are you kidding?


We had an exceptional meal and I declare chef Anthony Bonnet to be a rising star in a constellation of greatness.

Spoiled rotten. Friday 17th April 2009.

Alex opted for some down time for a while today and Fran and I cycled over to the food mecca of Les Halles marketplace. I knew she would love it and she did. We weren't there long before our tummies responded to the eye-popping displays of all things gourmet around us.

We propped ourselves up the bar at Maison Rousseau http://www.maison-rousseau.com/ for a feast of oysters from Bretagne (near to where we will be staying in Nantes later this year) and Normandy. The crevettes (prawns) were from Madagascar and were sweeter than normal. The house vinaigrette and mayonnaise were sublime. We sipped an appropriate vin blanc with a slightly dry finish from nearby Macon. David, our waiter, pulled up a bar stool and chatted to us over lunch. He prepared us each a snail from the Bourgogne region which arrived bubbling with garlic and parsley butter and showed us how to clamp the shell while prying out the meat. David made it the total experience as we sat at the bar happily eating, drinking and chatting.

We wandered the aisles of Les Halles, stopping in on Romuald at Bellota-Bellota. Romuald gave us both a sliver of his jambon, we swooned. I will never forget how delicate this jambon is. It is vastly different to any other I have ever tasted, nothing comes even close. We said hello to Pierre Bastin, the lovely purveyor of the Bresse chickens, we drooled at the cheese displays, foie gras, charcuterie, quenelles etc. I booked in for a cooking class at 'Atelier de cuisine Philippe Lechat' at Les Halles for next Thursday morning, should be delightful!

Leaving Les Halles behind I took Fran to see the Place des Terreaux surrounded by the beautiful Hotel de Ville, its crown glistening in shinning gold, and the Musee des Beaux Arts with its inner couryard that is home to my favourite little garden.

AJ, Fran and I dolled ourselves up to go to Le Cintra Piano Bar/Restaurant where Fran was playing piano and singing. We had a dinner booking at 7, allowing Fran time to eat before her set. My entree was the highlight for me. A 'tartare d'ecrivisses et sa chiffonnade d'herbes' which was a tartare of crustacean brought together with a delicalte mayonnaise, served with a little crustacean on top. Alex was in heaven with 'ravioles au basilic', tiny raviolli like pillows served with a pale basil-green cream sauce with a perfume to match, they are a speciality nearby to Lyon. Fran shared her escargot and I shared my tartare, the escargot was not a patch on our lunch time treat from David at Les Halles, but they were nice all the same.

Fran lit up the room with the heartfelt lyrics of her songs. The piano's sweet notes danced around the restaurant, she shone her bright light in Lyon and we were so happy to be part of it. My dear friend Isabelle joined us in time for Fran's first song, and not long after, David, (our lunch time waiter and escargot eating coach) arrived with a friend. We all listened to Fran's vocals, chatted and drank. Alex got through a few hot chocolates while I was introduced to my new favourite digestive called 'Jet', it shimmered bright emerald green, hypnotic as it became illiminated by the lamplight.

It was fun riding home on the velov's late at night, the city lights twinkled as they reflected playfully on the Rhone, the sound of gravel under our tyres was a good sound and I smiled a big smile at the thought of how happy I was... again.

Life pitter patters along. Thursday 26th Feb, 2009.

Being Alex's first full day at school, I set out to do some foodie research. My respected source of all things food related, Agnes, had told me of a chocolatier that was 'the best' in Lyon. So off I trotted...

Au Royaume Du Chocolat lies in the 6th arrondissement and is a dollop of sweetness in this otherwise unremarkable part of town. Madame Guyennot treated me to the house specialty of Part Dieu chocolate. A pyramid of pralines and almond covered in smooth, dark chocolate. I couldn't only sample their chocolates for free so I bought a few house specialties; E corce d'orange, a confit clemantine with its bottom dipped in chocolate, mmm mmm, and a chocolate filled with caramel ganache punctuated with noisette, almond and pistache. Monsieur Guyennot is a chocolatier of 25 years experience and everything at Au Royaume Du Chocolat is made in house.

I visited my friends at the poultry shop at Les Halles marketplace. Pierre's son is organising a visit to the supplier of their prized Bresse poultry and will call me back with details... very exciting!

Alex arrived home from school telling me his day could not have been any more perfect, his grin said it all. I think I am fobidden to retell the story though, sorry. He entered the world of school restaurant dining for the first time today. After swiping his card he dined on a fresh salad, pork with a white peppercorn sauce and a sweet nut tart for dessert. I think I will sign up for school!

John wandered aimlessly around Lyon this afternoon, with only his camera for company and came home with some great shots, he had a ball.

Life is pitter-pattering along just fine here in Lyon and the trees are beginning to sprout buds of new life.

It's off to Les Halles we go. Wednesday 11th Feb, 2009.

Most of the morning passed with with me learning to upload photos to my blog. I'm getting there though and it's all for you. I really have no patience for the process, I just like to see the end result.

Alex's wish finally came true and I made my first batch of French crepes. They were pretty good too. Alex had his smothered in chocolatey Nutella and John and I both had ours sprinkled with a little sugar and a squeeze of fresh lemon juice.

We are in the grips of a heat wave today, it's 10 deg! Even so, I rug up as it is amazing how chilly it is outside. Alex is allowed to stay behind in the apartment today after a thorough test of home phone to mobile, mobile to home phone and mobile to mobile... all work.

John and I make our way to Les Halles Marche where I am interviewing Romuald, the Maitre Cortador (Master Cutter) of the Jambon Iberico Bellota-Bellota. It is proclaimed to be "Le meilleur Jambon du monde", (the best jambon of the world). Romuald is so passionate about what he does and very proud of his cutting prowess. He cuts for Paul Bocuse amoung others, and also for competition. We are given a translucant petal of jambon to try, it is incredibly delicate. There are four different varieties of this jambon, differing in characteristics due to the different regions in Spain where the black pigs roam scoffing down acorns and arromatic herbs all day. I was very proud to be able to identify the variety we tried. It seemed easy really, the fruit and nut characteristics of the jamon were very pronounced. Cut from the leg as we ate it costs a mere €261 per kg, that's $522 AUD!

John snapped away and got some beautiful shots. It was really lovely to be collaborating on a project together, especially one as wonderful as this.




And for dessert tonight... crepes!