Too Much Beauty In One Day. Saturday 11th July 2009.

Is it possible to see too many beautiful things in one day? Today was one of those days, everywhere I looked I was struck by just how lovely the world is. First, to begin my day with JR and AJ, and then to travel around France to places so beautiful they should come with a warning.

We returned to the Bourgogne Canals, where life trickles along at such a leisurely pace it makes one weary. The first stop was at the village of Bligny-sur-Ouche right near the source of d l'Ouche Canal. The water was lined with apple and cherry trees, laden with fruit.






The loch keeper at Bouhey was awaiting the arrival of a few boats so we waited around to see the process from start to finish. The boats arrived and made their way into the loch, and then meandered slowly downstream. The first boat through was manned by two elderly ladies, one on deck and one in the wheel house - you go girls!




It was already 3pm and on our arrival in La Pont d'Ouche, our canal-side spot for a picnic lunch was settled on in an instant. We laid the table with our saucisson, varieties of cheese, red tomatoes, and crusty baguette. A boat drifted past us as we ate, the English guys on board told us the Aussies were doing us proud in the Ashes match. The boys were happy.

I met two ladies on board a Flemish/Dutch boat moored on the canal, they had set up camp for a few weeks. One of the ladies and her hubby had bought the boat in England, restored it, and brought it over to France via the Channel. It's name is loosely translated to 'Out of the ratrace'. They couldn't be further from the ratrace if they tried. The sisters sat on deck, sipping white wine and smoking like chimneys, a crossword sat on the table in readiness for when there was a lull in conversation. I guessed that would be rare.

Downhill from the village of Chateauneuf, we could see its Chateau high on the hill. Chateauneuf has been awarded the honour of being 'a beautiful village of France'. No wonder, we all agreed it was one of the most beautiful we had visited on our travels so far. Bright, blooms sat atop spindly stalks with busy bees darting in and out of the flowers, on their outward journey they were covered in white specks of pollen. They were industrious and surely the hardest workers in the village today. Can the botanists out there tell me the name of these flowers please? My friend JC says it may be a Hibiscus but he is just as bad with flowers as I am.





The Chateau was beautiful, it was simple in contrast to others we had seen and was beautiful in its simplicity. My favourite thing were the glazed floor tiles. I liked the way the light shone through the windows onto them.







In the centre of the village we sat on an outside table at L'Auberge du Marronier, Alex chased a lemonade flavoured with syrup fraise, with a rich hot chocolat, JR downed a cold beer, and I, a cafe creme. There was a game of Jeux de Palet in play in the village square, in view of our table. It's a simple game. Today's participants used metal discs, rusted with age, and tossed them onto a wooden board, the player landing closest to the jack disc is the winner, kind of like petanque I think, although I am no expert. This was the first time I had seen this game and the information I gleaned was from people that spoke no English, and from watching intently while sipping my cafe.



The road took us back canal-side to Vandenesse-en-Auxois where boats were moored just after the village loch. From here there was a distant view of the Chateau with the glazed tile floor, high on the hill. We knew the canal disappeared through a tunnel to travel underground for about 3km further upstream at Pouilly-ex-Auxois. It took us so long to find the entrance but I'm glad we persevered. Young lovers had set up a picnic just near the entry. Alex and I threw rocks into the water from above, the sound of them breaking the water's surface made the best plopping sound, echoing in the tunnels entrance.



We were home by about 10 and dinner was on the table by 11 - who cares!

Castles in the Air. Monday 15th June 2009.

If I had of known what today would hold, I don’t think I would have been able to sleep last night I would have been so full of excitement and anticipation.

We crossed the vast Loire River at Ingrandes sur Loire, much of the river bed was exposed but the river was still wide and from one bank to the next was a long, long way. The day had begun slowly and it had been hard to plot our course to visit the Loire Valley. We wanted to show Julie the France we love, the tiny villages every few miles or so, to get off the freeway and discover the out of the way charms we knew she would love.

By the time we reached the village of Mont Jean, I knew we were on the right road. We swung into the car park belonging to Eglise Saint-Symphorien, high on the hill overlooking the village with views of the villagers backyards filled with market gardens planted in neat little rows. Alex babbled a hilarious commentary about JR, Julie and I being competitive Olympic photographers, he was so funny. The church was built here on the sight of an old castle in 1860.

By lunch time we had reached Chalonnes sur Loire. We dropped into the tourist office and met two charming and helpful ladies. Unfortunately the restaurant they recommended was closed as is often the case on Mondays. Our only hope was Calo Delices right on the square opposite the Hotel de Ville. The four of us enjoyed the most simple, tasty and well cooked lunch, nothing fancy, just good, plain, flavoursome cooking. We ordered the entree du jour of fresh rockmelon and salami, followed by the plat du jour of baked chicken with frittes and vegetables. No tricks and turns, it was what it was, and it was great. Service was spot on too, our waitress did well to decipher our sometimes ordinary French as she spoke no English at all. An American soap opera (either Days of our Lives or Young and Restless) was on a TV mounted on the wall, we all laughed that every country seems afflicted with this terrible form of entertainment. How funny.

We travelled through Ardenay and Denee before literally stumbling upon Brissac-Quince which is home to the majestic Chateau de Brissac. We excitedly piled out of the car and stood awestruck by the sight before us. The owner agreed to have one of his staff host us on a private guided tour which concluded with a wine tasting of the wines made from the Brissac family vineyards.


We began in The Grand Salon, elegant and lovely, adorned with gold and rich tapestries. The room had a warm and welcoming feel helped along by framed family photos sitting on top of the piano.


The next room was my favourite, The Dining Room. The table was laid with Hungarian china, the Brissac family china decorated with small, red-brested birds. Overlooking the large, oval dining table is a purpose built orchestra balcony, with a sweeping staircase leading up to it. Every wall is hung with antlers, trophies of the 2000 deer a descendant of the family had hunted in days gone by. The Brissac family use this room today for celebrations like Christmas.



The Reception Hall was next, its floor undulated gently under foot, worn away over the years by footsteps of visitors past. The individual shutters on every window that catch the afternoon sun are particular to this castle.

Just off the Reception Hall is the chamber of Louis XIII. Red velvet and dark wood give the room a regal, plush feel. It is filled with unique pieces of furniture like the chair made to sit backwards on with a padded back rest to lean your arms while playing chess; just the thing for hours of long contemplation. Under the top of the padded back rest are small compartments to store chess pieces in. Lift the seat and you have a porcelain potty so you never have to excuse yourself from your game. The blue hues of the tapestry in the chamber are well preserved as it is protected from light most of the time, it depicts Alexander The Great’s entry through the gates of Babylon. The heavy red drapes add a certain luxury and opulence and match perfectly the bed linen.


We are shown the guest room which can be rented out at €380 a night, breakfast and a tour of the castle included. Inside the room are ornaments of 16th century weaponry. Alex got to hold a mace which was great fun for him.

The Portrait Gallery is an elegant room with walls hung with portrait upon portrait; the most famous is of Madame Cliquot from the famed champagne house.

It is unusual to find a private theatre in any castle but Brissac has one of these too and it is decked out just like an old fashioned theatre should be, with layers and layers of red velvet curtains used to close every act. It appears as if straight from a movie with the walls and curtains emblazoned with intertwining C’s, the Brissac family moniker.

We descend into the coolness of the wine cellar for a wine tasting, we enjoy a rose, and two dashing reds, we buy one to enjoy in our castle back home.

What a surprise to have spent this time in such a historic place, I feel very honoured and how lovely for us four to all share in this special experience together.

Our final destination today is the town of Saumur on the banks of the Loire, which is home to the beautiful Chateau de Saumur, beautiful, but not nearly as beautiful as our Chateau de Brissac that will forever hold a special place in all of our hearts.

We fly home on the freeway and pay horrendous tolls for the privilege, €13 euro in total ($26 AUD!). Julie has to pack tonight ready for her 6am train departing from Nantes SNCF station. We will leave home around 5 in the morning to get the tram into the station. My heart feels as though it is breaking at just the thought of Julie leaving. We have forged such special memories together in France, all of us have.