We were up and at 'em early this morning, onto the maze of motorways that lead out of Lyon. John says he would love to see an aerial shot of the road network here, it seems so complex.
Today we explored Chatillon-d'Azergues where we walked up the side of the hill, past the ramparts to the old fort, the weekly market was on in the square, it was lovely. We found a boulanger/patissier/chocolatier/glacier who made the most lovely jambon tartes and we ate them on the street.
Next was the village of Charnay where all the buildings were made of honey coloured stone from the area. The buildings looked as though they had been licked with late afternoon sun. We came across a little restaurant called Auberge la Broc' Assiette and what a find. Run by mother and daughter, Maya and Ann Sophie, the food is what they cook at home, there is no menu. Waitress Pascaline rambles through the plats of the day, all simple and good. We order the menu for €18 a head, and got so much more than we bargained for. Entree choices were assiette of saucission (which Alex and I both ordered, sourced from a local farmer), and John's choice of endive, lardon and egg salad.
There is no choice for main course at all, all diners are served what Mum decides to cook. This was definitely the best meal I have had since arriving in France. Three mismatched plates arrived at our table, piled high with caille farcie (stuffed quail, but these were the biggest quail I have ever seen, the kind that are worth while eating), a sautee of wild mushrooms and pan fried haricot beans, drizzled with a light jus it was a delight. We made little noises as we ate, industriously taking every bit of quail flesh from the bones to reveal the centre of onion laced stuffing. We ordered a half pot of Beaujolais blanc which was dry and crisp, an accompaniment worth remembering.
We thought it was time for dessert but Ann Sophie had a different plan. The fromage course was next and you had to see it to believe it. The commumal cheese plate travels around the restaurant, from table to table, and is not moved on until you have had your fill. The choice is for fromage blanc or fromage sec but Ann Sophie spoiled us and gave us everything to choose from. She tipped a little pot of fresh cows cheese into a bowl and sprinkled it generously with sugar, mixed it up and offered it to me. It was fresh and clean and white as snow. Alex enjoyed the reblochon which was oozy inside and stinky as an old boot, and John tried the Saint Marcellin for the first time which was studded with sweet raisins.
It was time for dessert and lovely Ann Sophie dazzled us with seven choices all made by herself and Mum, Maya. She disappeared into the kitchen leaving us lolling around the table with satisfied grins plastered on our food loving faces. She returned with "something very special just for us". Placed before us was a serve of every dessert on offer, accompanied by three spoons. There was a pralines tarte, not too sweet and with a thin base of homey pastry, a tarte of citron, orange and grapefruit, a devilishly rich chocolat mouse, tiramissu (not very french I know), a pear cake, a moist chestnut cake, and a white chocolat and coconut tarte with a thin slick of dark chocolate between the pastry and the filling. We all looked like the cat who ate the cream. I could not do it justice after the feast I had already indulged in, but the boys did me proud and tucked in. I must say the small taste of the pralines tarte was perfection followed by the white chocolat and coconut, I adore that flavour combo.
We waddled out of Auberge la Broc' Assiette having enjoyed one of our best food experiences ever. We talked about how Fran would love the hospitality and would love to bring her here when she comes to stay with us in Lyon this April. I am torn between wanting to share this place and keeping it as the perfect memory it is.
We wound our way along the windy roads of the Beaujolais region, over hills and through valleys visiting the villages of Bagnols, le Bois d' Oingt and Oingt, all built of warm, honey coloured stone.
If I was asked what I would change about today... my answer would be 'nothing'.
